I would try and take my little Nikonos IV-A along with me to the beach, hoping for some ever awesome conditions, bright sun light or small waves, fun folks playing in their playground. Some days it would be difficult to choose. Take photos or go surfing. It wasn’t always big waves that made me feel this way, my preferred wave size was anything 4ft and under. Like Miki Dora I wanted to be the king of little waves.
We walked to the beach to check out the surf. It was perfect. Tiny & little. There were many people out & the sun was shining. While it was the middle of summer the weather had not been what we think of. The warm days teased us here and there but never really stuck around.
Locals cruised the beach board walk on their bikes & with their strollers. Taking in the cool sunshine.
Boards laid on blacktops and roof racks. Dancing with delight at the session about to happen.
Rider’s run past. Dressed in full suits, the water must be cold. Frozen toes barely touching the asphalt clouds.
My Wonder Twin & I don’t look forward to the cold dunk, we walk back to the sand to watch a little of the show before slipping into our neoprene suits.
Doheny is a quiet beach, if you stick to the sands. People comb the beaches for sea glass, enjoy the seagulls fishing or a dramatic sunrise.
Eventually we made our way into the water. I left the camera in the car. I’d decided a surf without photos was needed more than that shutter click.
The next day I meet up with a surfer I’d photographed a bit before, Nick Zjicek , and I’d planned to go out with the SPL Splash Water Housing but go a Rambo inspiration and decided to sling the Nikonos IV-A like a bandolero of bullets, 36 shots to fire. I had the 50mm lens on the Canon and 80mm with the Nikonos viewfinder on the film camera. I had to be quick on the draw.
We met up early, hoping to recreate some beautiful magic. Chasing that magic light can be hit and miss. This morning was cloudier and darker than the other five times we’d met up in that week and a half. The waves a bit mushier.
I stayed in till the CF card was full, the roll was wasted and my hands and feet could no longer work. I told Nick I was spent and waded toward the shore. Untying my fin leashes was always a challenge when you had no sensation in your fingers. My thumb tingling, I’m sure it was the begging stages of hypothermia.
It was a beautiful morning and as I walked back to the car I felt alive and renewed.
CAMERA: Nikonos IV-A w/ Nikkor 80mm lens & Nikonos viewfinder // FILM: Dizzy Cow Mystery Film