If you’ve spent enough time around Southern California beaches then chances are you’ve seen this guy, tall and in a captains hat, usually is driving some perfectly petinaed car of the hot rod fashion. Skates and even roller skates this guy isn’t a land lover. You’ll find that out when he takes to the waves on his 45 pound kook box he shapes right here in Dana Point. Established artist, half of Bent Duo. This guy is one soul you’ll never forgot you’d seen.
Who is he? What is his name?
Brian Bent I’d say.
It had been crazy three months since BB & I had first talked about taking some photos and Wednesday was finally that morning. I’d come to Doheny wth the off idea that I might meet up with BB, but it being the day after the holiday you never know what people will do. So I headed to Dana Point with the plan to surf with my girl, but something told me to bring along my camera just incase.
Chance would have it that I was at the right place at the right time. An hour after getting to Doheny I was in the water photographing BB on one of his crazy kook boxes.
These kook boxes are hollow bodied boards themed after the old traditional rescue boards of the Australia, Hawaii & California. Brian has taken these old board designs and given them new life. Making these things completely a part of his life.
If you didn’t know any better you’d say he was riding a modern longboard with the ease he controls this 45 pound handcrafted beast.
Brian is more like a teenage boy, wild and in the 70s, trapped in a man’s body. His joy and excitement about everything he speaks of is completely infectious, surfing one board wasn’t enough for this guy, so he ran into shore and grabbed a second. Taking to the waves again as if he’d just gotten there.
The holiday crowds had died away, leaving only the locals and more dedicated of souls to show up at an early hour, but as time wore on more people came out. I heard this guy in the picture below say
“Watch out. Watch out”
I’m assuming more to himself than to anyone else. The way we speak to ourselves in panicked moments.
For a good hour I enjoyed watching this happy soul do the thing that makes his very being sing.
You can see the difference in the boards he rode that morning. A thick kook box and a slim modern design.
I hope you enjoy the photos and if you get a chance to watch this man surf, or chat with him, maybe see him play or go to one of his art shows then by all means you should.
Want to see this man in action. Check out all these Youtube videos right here.
CAMERA: Canon 7D // LENS: Canon 50mm f/1.4 USM // SPL Splash Housing Unit // EDITING SOFTWARE: Adobe Lightroom 5