Saturday we surfers got to celebrate our ocean and the dance we all crave when we’re not here.
I hit the soft sands of Blackies Beach and hoped to capture some of that holiday.
I happened to meet up with Logan Richardson (@logierich), I’d seen him surf there a few times before, but this time I was able to get some post worthy shots. If you follow Logan on his Instagram you’ll see his little piggies often dancing their way around the world, but what you don’t get to see is his little piggies dancing on water.
Usually my shots are quite wide, far away, shooting too soon and missing those photos that make you feel like you’re right in the action. This time I’d wait. Wait for the last minute, let the water bash me in the head. A little pain for the best reward.
We all give soft top riders shit out in the line up. Assuming they’re nothing more than beginners or kooks. The old saying, don’t judge a book by it’s cover, has come to mind. Several times at a few spots, like Malibu, and on Saturday, I got to see Josh Walker (@josh.walker_) shows us again why it’s the surfer, not the board, that makes you rip.
Also out in the water was Christian Reyes (@reyes_christian). This was the second time I’d seen Christian out in the water, but definitely this set was the best.
Warm perfect peelers in crystal clear waters.
The waters were crowded, an annoyance when you’re out surfing, the task of dodging other riders, swimmers in the water or the occasional close out wave makes the already short ride at this beach even shorter. Today though everyone was having a good time, the spirit of Aloha in the air.
As the morning hour worn on the sun came out and a brighter vibe crept into the water.
This guy, I’ve got no idea who he is, was smashing the outside sets on his boogieboard. Him and his daughter were probably having some of the most fun I saw out there. He got some killer rides & I was able to capture some awesome moments. He also gave killer eye contact while he glided on by.
Now it’s Sunday. Another International Surfing Day has come & gone, but for those of us that live for the ocean, who have gotten so much because of their love for it, does this holiday really end?
Honorary Wave Shots
CAMERA: Canon 7D // LENS: Canon 50mm f/1.4 // SPL SPLASH WATERHOUSING // EDITING SOFTWARE: Adobe Lightroom